It’s no secret that I never had any desire to travel to Bali.
When I was growing up, Bali was the place for partying young Aussies to have a cheap beach and beer holiday in the sun. It held no appeal.
But, I can say, after two weeks here, I am a convert.
We travelled here for a family holiday to celebrate Domenic’s 60th and immersed ourself in the luxurious resorts of Nusa Dua, experienced Balinese cultural highlights in Ubud and completely relaxed in the chill vibe of Jimbaran Bay.
Bali to me is warmth – from the climate and the spiced cuisine, to the sweet smiles of the beautiful Balinese people. It is the aroma of smoke and spice as my meal is being cooked, the lushness of tropical gardens dotted with frangipani trees that flutter their flowers into the pool of my villa so I can pick one to put in my hair. It is a friendly welcome, impeccable service, surprisingly good food and refreshing tropical cocktails over sunset at the beach.
Most of all, it is relaxation, after what was a very full year for us and, now that I have experienced its magic, I am sure I too, will be looking out for the next hot travel deal that will get me back here for that total holiday feeling, in just a handful of hours, as soon as I can.
Here are some of my favourite food experiences for the best sort of ‘Bali Belly’!
NUSA DUA
The first taste of Bali was arriving at our gorgeous Kayumanis private villa, complete with 3 master suites and pool, just a short walk to Nusa Dua beach and all the resorts and restaurants that line the shore in this gated area. It has definite Hawaii vibes that cater for the holidaymaker, and it is clean, family-friendly and well-serviced.
I can recommend the Prawn Salad, Balinese Bebek (crispy duck) and short ribs at Tetaring and Lobster Laksa at Ikan Restaurant and Bar.
You can travel outside the gates for a more earthy Balinese experience, which is what I love to do, with famous Babi Guling (suckling pig) at Wahrung Babi Guling Sari Dewi, or the Ayam Bakar (grilled chicken) and Ikan Bakar (Grilled Fish) cooked in front of you over hot coals, at Ikan Bakar Vichi for $2.50 AUD per plate! A whole fresh coconut juice, lime squash or Bintang beer will provide that much needed refreshment.
Head Chef Denny from Kayumanis worked with me to create a magnificent dinner on the beach to celebrate Dom’s 60th, complete with a curtained tent, beach candles, flowers and amazing service from the Kayumanis team. It was a magic night we will never forget.
We also had pre-dinner cocktails and tapas at the stunning Sky Bar at the impressive Mulia resort.
Early morning rising means you can experience sunrise on the beach, easy Summertime walks, a beachside massage and a leisurely Balinese breakfast before the heat of the day lures you in for a cooling swim.
Swim, eat, sleep, repeat…
We also took a market tour and cooking class with Chef Denny from the Kayumanis group which was a fun introduction to Balinese food, and created an amazing feast to share.
SEMINYAK
We swung into Seminyak for half a day to check out this busy, touristy town, bursting with bars, market stalls and cheap eats.
A friend recommended Waroeng Bernadette for their famous Rendang dish which really did live up to expectations.
For that quintessential Bali beach club vibe with cocktails and casual eats in your beachwear from dawn to dusk, you can’t beat Ku De Ta.
UBUD
Drive north 40km to the uplands – it will take 1 1/2 – 2 hours due to traffic and winding roads – where Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali invites exploration.
The lush tropical jungle climate is ideal for the cultivation of rice fields, exotic fruits and coffee plantations.
The undulating rice terraces are a sight to see, and the Kumulilir coffee centre, set up to give a taste into traditional coffee production, is worthwhile. Here you can taste the famous Luwak coffee – produced from coffee cherries that have been partially digested by the civek – a native possum like animal (they call it Cat Poo Coffee – and it tastes bright and fruity to me – quite liked it!). The waterfalls are also nearby for a refreshing visit.
But you can’t visit Ubud without a bit of monkeying around at the famous sacred Monkey Forest. Follow the rules and you will have a memorable interaction with these cheeky, sociable creatures in their natural habitat.
The boutique hotels and elevated dining options in Ubud make it a go to for food lovers and you can definitely feel the influence of highly skilled Aussie chefs in the modern Asian fusion cuisine that is evolving here.
We stayed at Como Uma Ubud where a la carte breakfast by the pond was as good as any brunch in Melbourne. The house Italian restaurant, Uma Cucina, turns out pretty good antipasto, pastas and pizzas for those looking for a break from Indonesian food.
Honey and Smoke combines Indonesian, Asian, Latin American and Euro flavours with a modern presentation in surprising, flavourful dishes under the hand of Aussie chef, Will Meyrick. Loved the Smoked Tomato Eggplant Dip and the good value Feed Me menu – it featured scallops, zucchini flowers, house made charcuterie, whole snapper with harissa, and spiced lamb kebabs, although sharing one small dessert between two left us wanting a little more sweet (which was fixed with a cone from Gelato Secrets – they’re everywhere!)
At Hujan Locale, also guided by Will, the Asian fusion continues with big flavours suitable for lazy grazing. The Tuna Betel Leaf and Slipper Lobster Dumplings were delightful bites to start with, and we opted for the Charred Octopus curry with Charred Romaine and the Jagung Bakar – charred corn dish.
The locals pointed us to Warangal Pulau Kelapa for freshly cooked, reasonably priced Indonesian food prepared from an organic garden. It was the best saté so far.
The most fun food experience though, was dining on crispy Balinese duck in an over-water hut, in a pond of hungry koi fish at Tebasari, around half an hour south of Ubud – a good stop on the way back South.
JIMBARAN
Originally a small fishing village supported by a local market, Jimbaran now boasts many 5 star resorts and accompanying restaurants, but its charm lies in choosing a beachside table at one of the seafood cafes on the beach to watch the magnificent sunset while your seafood is being grilled over coals for you. We had crab, calamari and prawns at the renown Menega Cafe.
For a more dramatic setting, the exclusive Rock Bar at Ayana Estate is Bali’s most glamorous spot to watch the sunset, perched on a clifftop as the waves crash on the rocks below. They even have a cliffside cable car to transport you to the bar area at the base of the hotel. The prime spots are reserved for hotel guests, but we booked a post-sunset dinner table and ended up with a day bed spot to watch the sun go down. It’s a ‘bar snacks-to-doof doof dj music-while sipping cocktails’ sort of vibe. They even offer you umbrellas as a shield from the searing sun.
Kayumanis Jimbaran also offers a magnificent environment to just ‘be’ in your private pool villa with excellent room service and an in-house spa.
The Kayumanis Resto signature dish – Bebek Panggang Mekudus – celebrates Bali’s Hindu heritage with a celebratory dish of traditionally grilled duck marinated in Balinese spices, theatrically brought to the table on a smoking clay charcoal grill with various accompaniments.
It’s just a 5 minute walk to the beach, seafood cafes and, at night, you can stroll to the nightime street food stalls for saté and charcooked meats – if you are game – which I always am!
The Puri Belmond resort that sits on the beachfront is also a good spot for dining with a view of the ocean. In the middle of the year the sun sets on the horizon right in front of it.
So a stay in Bali, short or long, will leave you feeling relaxed, full-bellied and, just like me, planning the next one!
P.S> Just make sure you pop a Travelan before each meal to avoid the other, not-so-desireable type of Bali Belly
