14/10/2019

Peloponnesian Odyssey

Our odyssey into the ancient heart of Greece – the Peloponnese region – felt like a journey into its soul. On the map, the area looks like a ‘hand’ and it comprises of four main peninsulas that offer archaeological sites, quaint towns, splendid hillsides and beautiful beaches. You are spoilt for choice here, and the only way to truly immerse yourself is to hire a car and start exploring.

We began with a stop at the Corinth canal, an easy hour’s drive from Athens. This deeply carved out canal separates the Peloponnese from the mainland, technically making it an island, and has to be seen to be believed, especially when a ship is being pulled through it by a tug boat. Foodwise, expect snacky refreshment stops only, although we did pick up a pretty tasty tiropita (cheese pie) from the service station.

After visiting the amphitheatre at Epidaurus, we stayed in the pretty seaport town of Nafplio, which is actually part of the Argolid Peninsula. The thing to do here walk down the rocky hill on the South of town to Arvanitia Beach and get a spot at either the Blublanc Beach Bar that juts out into the Aegean. It’s beach bar food, club sandwiches, wraps, salads and drinks, all served under the shade of your umbrella while you get on with the business of sunbathing. Oh and yes, you get WiFi.

The town square is lined with tavernas and cafes, but for something more regional, Pidalio Tavern serves fresh caught fish and local specialities. Great boutique accommodation at Grand Sarai.

Driving South along the second peninsula – Cape Malea – towards Monemvasia, after 1 1/2 hours, Leonidio is a perfect rest stop. Sit on the pebbled beach and watch the boats over an ice cold fruit smoothie, then pick a local taverna like Taverna Tou Psara (Taverna Of the Fisherman), often a family run affair, to enjoy the catch of the day by the sea – we had delicious calamari. They are known for their delicious Melintzanoslata (eggplant dip) which is chunky and flavoured with garlic, parsley and capsicum so make sure you order some for starters.

The grounds of the Kinsterna Hotel in Monemvasia are reminiscent of Italy, but with an ocean view. The hotel and spa boasts its own orchard, olive groves and stables with buildings that date back to the 16th Century. Sitting outdoors on a balmy summer evening in their signature Sterna restaurant is just magic, and their al fresco Taverna with wood fired grill serves a family style shared meal in the evenings, a couple of times a week. The breakfast buffet is also something to behold with locally produced creamy Greek yogurt, floral scented honey, local bakery goods and traditional pittes. It’s a sustaining start to the day if you plan to climb the Kastro of Monemvasia, a medieval Byzantine fortress that dates back to 530AD and has survived many a barbarian attack in its history. A must see spot!

After the climb, sit back and enjoy some home style meze at the Akrogiali Monemvasia Tavern across the port. Very good stuffed zucchini flowers!

Do not miss out on a morning or afternoon on Elafonissos Island, that boasts the best beach in Greece – Simos Beach. You get there by ferry boat and after your beach activities, the Spiros Spiridoula psarotaverna (fish tavern) back at the port serves sensational seafood like prawns saganaki and fried baby red mullets. Add a Greek salad and some hand cut chips and really, you need nothing else.

In Greece, you will find yourself meandering, looking for places to eat. Spotting a good taverna is an art! I look for a few things…if I feel like seafood, which is often the case here, I look for a seafood tavern that has fresh fish on display but always ask what came in today. You want a family run place, and if their name is on the door, that’s a good sign. We try and avoid anywhere that has garish photos of the food on a sandwich board out the front. And the best indication is, are there Greeks eating there? Not just tourists.

The third peninsula of the Peloponnese is Mani and down south the road leads to Gerolimenas, the ‘holy harbour’. The dwellings here are all made of stonework and the rugged coastline and bloody history of the region reflects in the stoic character of the Maniots. This is an unspoilt, largely undiscovered part of Greece that is slowly getting used to another kind of stranger in its midst…the tourist! Boutique hotels, like the historic Kyrimai, where we stayed, are popping up in picturesque coves and the local tavernas are starting to step up. The hotel has the only restaurant in town, and runs a lunchtime wood fired oven. Everything else are family run tavernas, good for a serve of home style Yemista (stuffed vegetables) or the regional specialty – pasta with prawns in an ouzo laced tomato sauce.

Touring the area will lead you Vathia, an abandoned Byzantine town – stop for a refreshment at Marmari Paradise, another amazing resort hotel.

Areopoli is the prettiest of the towns in the area and a perfect spot to lunch after visiting the Caves of Diros. Be sure to try the Siglino – this is the regional dish of smoked, salted preserves pork, often served with home style loukanika (sausages) and a Maniatiki Salad of potatoes, oranges and olives dolloped with a spicy cheese dip – at the Mavromihalaiko taverna – it all works together surprisingly well. There are also roadside stalls selling locally handmade, hand painted pottery to browse at and buy, and you will wish you had room in your luggage to smuggle home the cans of village olive oil, jars of honey and hand woven wares you will pass along the way.

The seaside town of Stoupa has a popular beach that is also lined with sun lounges, beach umbrellas and taverns. Take up a spot for the afternoon, to swim and sunbake between drinks and then take a table for a plate of crispy fried baby calamari and a beer. Then an easy 5km down the road it’s caffe frappe time at Aquarella at Kardamyli.

As you head back up North into olive country towards Kalamata, this region will remind you of Tuscany…but with beach! This is the land of olive groves, beekeepers and fisherman and the living is easy.

Kalamata, however, is not the mountain town you might be expecting, it is a large commercial city by the sea with an active port that services the Messinian peninsula, the fourth leg of the Peloponnese. It has a long, wide beach boulevard, lined with hotels and restaurants, and is the Summer playground for Athenians. The souvlaki joints, seaside tavernas and kafenions bustle all day during the warm months, and the centre of town offers good shopping, brunch spots and cafes. A seafood lunch at Navarino followed by an ‘ouzo nap’ is the order of the day…and then a charcoal souvlaki dinner at Ladorigani (which means ‘oil and oregano’).

A must visit, at sunset, is Kastraki Meteoro, an impressive custom built entertainment complex in the Byzantine style, embedded in the hills overlooking Kalamata. It’s a bar, nightclub, cafe and restaurant. Go for a coffee or a cocktail in early evening to see the sun go down and then stay on for nocturnal activities.

Driving down into Messinia on the way to Pylos, you can stop at Agios Andreas for a coffee before heading to Koroni to visit the Monastery and the kindly nuns who will welcome you. Please support them by buying some of their handmade wares. Then wander into town for lunch by the sea. We had great chargrilled calamari at Kaggelarios Fish Tavern.

The Castle of Methoni is a must. It is easy but interesting walking out to what remains of the citadel on the edge of the sea. There is a small beach cove here for a drink or ice cream.

The town of Pylos on the Bay of Navarino has a lot to offer for a few days’ stay. It is where the Greeks, with a little help from their friends, defeated the Ottoman Empire in the early 1800s. It has a friendly town centre and while the swimming around Pylos is mostly off the rocks, there are several beautiful beach destinations a short drive or boat ride away around the curve of the bay itself. You really do need to hire a small boat for the day to explore the coves or drive into the beaches. There is Voidokilia beach, Divani beach, Golden beach and picturesque Gialova, that has a tropical feel due to the palm trees! The Natura complex of the Zoe resort offers sun lounging and refreshments, and we had a very good Tzatziki and generous Cypriot pita (pork souvlaki, pork meatballs and salad in pita) at Spitiko.

In town, our favourite taverna was O Aetós that has prime position on the corner of town, looking over the water. For the sweet tooth, the Krinos Zaharoplasteio (pastry shop) has superb house made galactobureko and baklava, and I couldn’t go past the freshly made Loukoumades (greek honey fritters) and greek coffee made on a burner in the window, at Zafeirakis.

When you sink in to this part of the world, it is very hard to leave. The living is so soul satisfying, I know it will call me back very soon.

Yiasou!

 

Share On:

Dylan Colaci
Dylan Colaci
08:34 23 May 24
Naomi’s cooking class was inclusive and lots of fun. Brought everyone together and the food and wine were all amazing. Thanks Naomi!
Matt Torcasio
Matt Torcasio
07:41 23 May 24
Amazing experience with Naomi. We are had such a great cooking class and cooking experience. Everybody loved it lots of laughs, lots of drinks and lots of fun.
Mia Hara
Mia Hara
07:35 23 May 24
A group of six of us attended Naomi‘s in person cooking class. We had the opportunity to choose the menu and theme prior to the experience. Each of us were involved the whole time. Throughout the session we had a chance to learn tips and tricks in the kitchen and she made us feel comfortable to ask questions. Naomi was professional, insightful and so much fun to learn from! Will definitely be booking in again!! THANKYOU Naomi!
Melissa Matheson
Melissa Matheson
20:44 14 Sep 22
We organised a virtual cook-a-long for our team with Naomi which was absolutely fantastic. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the session, Naomi is very engaging and has an absolute zest for inspiring others to find their finesse is the kitchen.
Cate Tibbertsma
Cate Tibbertsma
14:07 10 Sep 21
I enjoy Naomi's online cooking classes immensely. The classes are well-organised with all relevant information sent in advance so that the cook-along runs smoothly. Naomi is an engaging teacher and generously shares her knowledge and skill with the class; her recipes are easy to master and . many of them have become family favourites in my home.
Lisa Anderson
Lisa Anderson
02:23 06 Sep 21
I was fortunate enough to enjoy a few hours cooking with Naomi and some friends (virtually) last Sunday. What a delightful way to spend a few hours pulling together a delicious meal. Naomi made the whole experience so easy from booking, organising ingredients right through to putting the meal on the table. I loved hearing about her experiences of both the food we were cooking (Moroccan chicken) but also the places she had been. Oh and my family- being the beneficiary of a new take on Sunday night dinner were happy too. I would highly recommend this experience.
Sharon Thomson
Sharon Thomson
03:34 05 Sep 21
Naomi’s Cook-Along sessions are always fun and extremely informative. Ask Naomi anything about ingredients, food and wine and she will impart a world of wisdom. Not to mention the dish made in just an hour - so delicious and such a breeze online in the session. Thanks Naomi 😊
Carol Benson
Carol Benson
04:44 17 Aug 21
Naomi’s cooking classes are such fun plus they are improving my cooking skills. All the meals I have prepared with the classes are so flavoursome and have appealed to all the family (including a fussy teenager). All are on my ‘will make again’ list. I particularly like the extra little tips we get from Naomi – these tips are what helps a good cook become a great cook. Thanks Naomi
Jan Matheson
Jan Matheson
04:05 17 Aug 21
I've completed several of Naomi's Cookalong sessions and always learn new tips. The sessions are fun and we accomplish a delicious meal in 1 1/2 hours. Looking forward to more sessions.
Lorraine Aspinall
Lorraine Aspinall
09:13 13 Aug 21
“A good cook is like a sorceress who dispenses happiness.” Naomi brings joy to the art of cooking and sharing her wealth of knowledge and experience. Looking forward to joining more cook along sessions. Thank you Naomi!
Andrea Wood
Andrea Wood
00:04 12 Aug 21
Hats off to Naomi, she has absolutely mastered the presentation of her easy and delicious recipes in her classes on zoom.This was our first zoom class and we were really impressed. Naomi gave an immersive experience, enthusiastically sharing her knowledge and tips along the way and at the end of the class, we had a finished impressive meal, ready to sit down and enjoy.Naomi’s classes are a fab way to prepare your evening meal in a social environment and all while increasing your confidence and prowess in the kitchen. Now that’s an absolute win in our book.Thank you Naomi. You’ll be seeing us again in your Zoom kitchen. :)
River P
River P
11:45 27 Oct 20
Who would have thought Thursday nights would become a highlight of the week! These cooking classes are great fun and set an easy pace. You start at 6pm, relax with a wine with a great group while things bubble away, and you'll have a fab dinner on the table by 7pm - and it really will look amazing as Naomi also shows how to present things beautifully. I thought I'd have to do a lot of prep before the classes as I'm a slow cook, but it's not the case. You really do cook along easily in the hour and can ask for tips and questions all along the way. I've loved learning everything from restaurant style duck to Persian rice pilaf. I also highly recommend the leisurely Sunday slow cooks - you'll have a beautiful Sunday lunch and pro tips for leftovers. Think slow roast Greek lamb, then souvlaki with the leftovers and you know you'll be happy!
Luke Todd
Luke Todd
02:28 26 Oct 20
Naomi's online cooking classes are so fun and the food is delicious. Can't recommend highly enough. Book yourself in for a class, you'll be glad you did!
Sharon Tein
Sharon Tein
02:51 11 Sep 20
Great fun classes full of tasty food and all within an hour! Try it. You won’t be disappointed.
Loredana De Simone-Rybka
Loredana De Simone-Rybka
08:53 20 Jul 20
Highly recommend doing Naomi’s online cook along, it was such a great experience. Loved learning new recipes and learning new cooking tips along the way. Enjoyed making a few meals together with a great group of people and the food was absolutely delicious. Look forward to doing more classes. Thank you for creating this wonderful experience bringing foodies together sharing knowledge in cooking good simple, wholesome and delicious food. It was so much fun.
Aliki Zouliou
Aliki Zouliou
10:13 26 Jun 20
Cooking can sometimes be a chore for me but Naomi's cook-along classes have been so much fun! With her guidance I was able to whip up delightful meals that I normally wouldn’t have attempted, ready right in time for dinner – AND enjoyed by all the family!I found it was easy to multi-task when listening to voice instructions during the classes and being able to glance over at the screen at any time allowed me to visually check that I was on track. It was also reassuring having Naomi there ‘live’ in my kitchen to answer any questions along the way.Looking forward to the next Thursday night cook-along!!!
Patricia Colaci
Patricia Colaci
08:35 26 Jun 20
Thanks Naomi for another great, fun Cook-Along session last night. We always look forward to our Thursday night Foodcentric Cook-Alongs. The Moroccan Lamb Tagine was absolutely scrumptious and even had leftovers for today 😋 Looking forward to next week session - Surprise Mozzarella Meatballs & Brie & Garlic Bread. 😊
Julie Hughes
Julie Hughes
00:00 24 Jun 20
Best $20 ever invested in myself. This was my first on line zoom class, I was not sure what to expect. I found myself completely immersed in the experience. Fantastic collegiate experience, lovely to meet others over zoom and such fun!. Really helpful to be cooking with an expert. I learnt simple ways of tweaking dishes, so helpful! The class was structured and very easy to follow and to be honest it made cooking this family meal effortless. I was sad when the hour was up but very proud of what I created. I am a convert now! Naomi was very generous and thoughtful in the way she provided a shopping list before hand and the menu. Perfect for people who love to cook, want to learn more skills. For those who can't get out this online format provides some great social engagement and something to look forward to. Just do it!
Ursula Czubala
Ursula Czubala
23:36 23 Jun 20
Cooking classes with Naomi are fun, relaxed and educational! My favourite part of these classes, is I'm cooking from my own kitchen (don't go anywhere!), and I get to eat dinner with my family straight after the 1 hour session is done at 7pm. They're affordable and something to look forward to each week. Thanks Naomi!
More reviews
js_loader

Foodcentric proudly supports FoodShare

Recipe Only Search

Recent Posts

You may also like

  • Food Blog ·

Daylight Dinners

When daylight savings sneaks up on us, although we might seem to be losing an hour initially, we gain so much more when it comes to the benefits of daylight stretching into dinnertime.  All of a sudden, the collective mood…
  • Food Blog ·

Raise your Risotto Game

When you master dish like risotto, you can turn a few ingredients that you have on hand into a restaurant-worthy meal in minutes.  Purists will always abide by the rules to making an authentic Italian risotto, and although I’m usually…
  • Food Blog ·

Perfect Pot Roasting

As old fashioned as it sounds, a pot roast is one of the best one-pot wonders you can cook in the winter months to fill the house with its warming aroma and fill your soul with comfort.  Unlike a casserole…
SHOPPING BAG 0